The First Ten: Item 10: The hacked concorde

Hi guys,

My item number ten was supposed to be the Harrison shirt from Cashmerette. And while I have sewn up a Harrison, it does clearly need some alterations. So I am procrastinating. And the best way to do that is to sew yourself something completely diffrent, but lovely.

So while I gather my courage, I sewed up this lovely hacked version of the concord. The fabric is a lovely jersey called Milano jersey, and I think it is a polyester/cotton blend, but there might also be some spandex or something in the mix. I got both colors for cheap as scrap-cuts in my local fabric shop.

So I had done some sleeve alterations on this version,  (trying to increase the width of the sleeve without tinkering with the arm scythe by creating a curve on the bottom) and to check it before giving the final okay, I just basted the sleeves and sides together to start with. The sleeves were pretty good. I will probably do a little tiny alteration next time, and make the curve slightly less sharp, but for now, it is a great improvement. However I thought it seemed a bit tight around my hips/belly. I also thought that the way I had placed the colors made it look like an old t-shirt fashion. So I decided to try and add some triangular side panels, both to give some more width and to change the look a bit.

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Looking at the pictures of my finished result I am very happy, I know I will be very comfortable in this t-shirt. However I am wondering if maybe I need to remeasure myself, because I do see some draglines at the side of my breasts, and it was a bit to snug around the hip/belly area. Oh well, we shall see, it is no big deal.

Well that was it for this time. I hope you all are enjoying yourself.

Feel free to leave me a comment, I appreciate and welcome them all.

Cheers!

Jannie

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The First Ten: Item(s) 9: Sleveless Shirt (Butterick 6026), And I am back home.

Hi guys!

I am happy to report that I am now finally back home. And today I got around to finish up some projects that I have been waiting forever (since before the trip to hospital) to share with you. But let me start with giving you an update about my stay in hospital.

As I wrote in the previous post I underwent back surgery to remove a prolapse in a my lower back, but it seemed that my symptoms had returned after a being violently sick from the medicin the same evening. To see if I had re-prolapsed or my nerve was “just” in bad shape, the gave me a new MR-scan and it turned out I had indeed re-prolapsed.

The next day I underwent surgery again. And I am happy to say this time there was no reprolapse. Two days later I got discharged and I was already walking again. I went to my mothers place to recover for a weeks time and a few days ago I came home. I am happy to say that while I am still a bit weak and taking it easy I feel better than I have felt the last year.

I can sit down now, lie on my sie, stand and walk around with little to no pain or problems. I get tired, and sometimes feel little tiny sensations that I would not even call pain. But that is it. I feel like I have gotten my life back, and I cannot stop smiling.

Okay, I will move along to the sewing.

Butterick 6026

Butterick 6026
Butterick 6026

So this is view A, the sleveless version. Which I guess is a bit of a weird choice, heading into the scandinavian fall season. But I really love sleveless shirts and I think they work great as layering pieces.

I made this garment in a viscose/acetate mix, which feels very soft and slightly shiny. I got the fabric online from Stofkiosken.dk where it was on sale for 20dkk/meter (3,5 USD). Which in danish prices is very cheap! And only now after completion of the shirt do I realize I am not supposed to iron it. I have been ironing the shi(r)t out of it, and will probably continue to do so, because it wrinkles really badly. Oh well, I guess we will see how long it survives.

I have kind of been dragging my feet regarding this make, having had both fabric and pattern for a while. I guess I just felt apprehensive about the number of alterations I would have to make, the new construction details (collar, button placket, full bust adjustment) as well as the amount of precision sewing to make neat tucks on the front.

I started out with a size 20 to match my top bust measurement and then following this tutorial made a full bust adjustment for a pattern without a dart. I added about 4 cm in the FBA, and decided to keep the dart it created. Next time I will shorten the dart though, I somehow managed to make it to long, and I didn’t pick up on my mistake before in the proces. Also the FBA added 4 cm alle the way down, which kinda changed the proportion of the fronts seaming details, so the tucks seem much less noticeable on my garment. Next time I think I will try lengthening them. Also I think I would like a little more ease next time, especially over bust and hips. Also I think I might have a bit too much ease about the waist, but I think I need to wear it a bit more to make that decision. I had planned to grade out the sizes to a size 24 over the hips, but initially I forgot, which I guess was a good thing, since the FBA also added quite a bit over the hips. So I ended up just adding a little more over the back-piece. Next time I make this I might experiment with having a starting off point of size 2o bust, size 18 waist and size 22 hips, then do the same, or a slightly bigger FBA. Other things I might change is the interfacing I have used for the collar, it is probably a little too stiff for my liking.

Of other points of interest, the shirt gave me a chance to use my edge stitch foot for the first time, which was really neat. All in all a very succesful make that I am sure I will get lots of use out of.

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Quickly after finishing this version I started my second version, having enjoyed the proces very much. This time it is in a khaki linen/viscose blend. I decided to not mess around with the basic size of my pattern, but I made the following alterations.

  • I shortened the darts and moved them a little down.
  • I tried to solved a  fabric bunching  problem in the back by moving the shoulder seams a bit foreward. This fix did not work. Next time I use this pattern, I should undo this alteration.
  • To fix the fabric bunching in the back, after having cut my pieces I made a centerback seam and removed fabric on the top as if it was a big dart. This worked fine.
  • Also I paid much more attention to precision when cutting and constructing the collar, as well as grading the seams on the inside to remove bulk. I also omitted a little bit of the top stitching, when I could see that the result just would not be great.
  • I forgot to lengthen the side pleats

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Overall I am very happy with my second make. The only thing that I am really regretting is that I forgot to prewash to fabric and I think it has shrunk the first time I washed it. I stille fits, it is just more snug, and there is a tiny bit of gape on the boobs. But oh well.

Over all I really enjoyed the process of sewing these shirts/button down blouses, and all the details. I never thought of myself as someone who would like to sew fiddly things with lots of details. But I guess I am. I also really feel I learned a lot from this project and mastered a lot of new techniques.

Well the is about it for this time, thanks for stopping by, all comments are of course welcome and appreciated.

Cheers!

Jannie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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