The First Ten: Item 6: Faux Leather “tights”

p1010027 So do you guys know how when you are working on a project, that sometimes it starts one place and ends up somewhere else. That was how my last project was.

I started out planning to make a pair of simple tights from this odd stretchy faux leather, but after several mis-cuts (cutting on the wrong way of the stretch, cutting to small because the fabric had to little stretch) I had to change my approach.

So I formed a new plan and got my trouser pattern out (the one I had made for the grey trouser that was item 1). It could work if I cut each front and back leg into two pieces, an upper and a lower part (also called a design detail, in case you were wondering). So I re-cut everything again and sewed them up. After having constructed the trousers I started modifying them, slimming in the legs for a tighter fit.

I also noticed that the back waistline sat lower than the front and also gaped like I had noticed on the original pair of trousers I had sewn from my pattern. I decided to try and fix it. One more seam hardly mattered at this point. So I attached a piece of fabric to the back piece, from side seam to side seam. Then I sewed up from the CB seam and made a big dart starting in the top of my back pieces and moving up into my new “flap” (is it a kinda yoke I have made?). Then I trimmed  the top of my flap. Now they sat into my back following the curve of my behind and sway back and I got a horisontal waistline all the way around.p1010037

A zipper, a waistband and a couple of quick hems later, done! Then I made the appropriate adjustments to my pattern, which was just as satisfying knowing I got one step closer to a great fitting pattern.

HAHAHA… no!

No, actully they looked terrible. Like biker pants, and not in the sexy bad chick way, but in the ill-fitting, pot-bellied midlife crises way. There was all sorts of strange baggyness going on in the front, and I had no clue how to fix it. I kept looking for answers online, and eventually almost gave up, thinking my shape was just to weird to fit too.

So I spent most of the weekend in depressed sew-frustration thinking about my shattered dreams of well-fitting pants. It wasn’t until I had a good sparring season with my boyfriend (who does not know much about sewing, but somehow have an intelligent eye for all things crafty), who kept suggesting removing fabric here and there. We also talked about other pants I owned that did fit me (so obviously it was possible), I tried them on, pondered about how they differed from the ones I had made and thought some more.

So today I got the pants out again and following my gut instinct, I started working on the CF/crotch seam taking them in as I went. In the end I think I took them in 7 times, but every time I could see it getting better. It was amazing! All in all I think I removed about 2,5 cm (1 inch) and more where it curves “under me”.p1010031p1010029

Satisfied with the fit I attached a waistband, or tried to. The rubbery faux leather didn’t go smooth through under the foot. So it was a huge struggle getting the waistband on. I gave up hemming them and just decided to leave them unheeded. I haven’t put in a button either, because I am not relishing putting it through the buttonhole maker. I think it will be hook and eye instead. As you can see in the images, the legs ended up a bit short too, so i might ad some fabric there. Also there is still som folds/wrinkles, but It looks much better in real.

Also I think I got to get a walking foot.

Well that is it for me for this time. Have you tried sewing with kinda fabric? How did it go? And do you have a perfect pants pattern? How long did it take you to perfect it?

Cheers!

Jannie

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