Item 1+2: My first pair of trousers and what became a snuggle blouse

trouser behind/side
trouser behind/side

So howdy,

Here is my butt. It is its internet debut and it is a little nervous. So be kind to it.

The first thing I sewed this time around, and as part of my “The First Ten” was a pair of kinda high waisted trousers. The trousers come from a pattern I have made myself, using this book.

ny mønster konstruktionI do not know if you can find it in english sorry, but basically it is a book about how to draft your own patters, how to alter patterns and why you
would want to do it. So it covers everything from how to do your own basic block (sloper?) to rotating darts etc. It also includes som basic patterns and a lot of way to alter them to more specifik designs.

One of my biggest challenges with clothing have always been
finding clothing that fit me well. Generally I am different sizes  depending on where you measure me. Especially my upper arms and thighs tend to be an area of challenge for RTW clothing. So to be able to wear trousers that was NOT super tight on my thighs, while being gaping loose in the waist, not to mention too long.. Well that would be great actually.

So trousers was top of my list. I work in a semi-casual office environment, so office appropriate trouser was my aim. I had purchased some dark blue/black trousers fabric, I am not sure what the fabric really was (next time ill be sure to ask). The fabric had a little stretch, which I asked for. Somehow stretchy fabrics always seem like a little miracle to me, in the aspect of fit in ready to wear. Thinking, if I screw up the sizing, the stretch will save me! Because stretch always saves you – stretch fabric is like the jesus of fabrics. It will forgive you and accept you, if you dont quite fit in.

trousers front
trousers front

I’ll take the stretch, thank you sir!

I think the stretch kinda worked against me in this case. Since my sewing experience is limited, I figured since it was not a lot of stretch, it wouldn’t matter to much. Like I would not have to account for it. But err.. Ya.

I drew up my basic pattern. It was a very simple design, with a side zipper and button,  a waistband and a few darts. I made all my alterations, widening thighs, shorter length, changed curve over hips (i have that secondary hip/thigh curve… se picture). It turned out, that all the extra centimeters I added, I ended up removing again, after the first fitting. I wanted the trousers to be fitted without being tight, but they initially ended up quite loose all over so I took them in.

In the end, I am pleased. They are definitely not perfect, but for a first attempt I am more than satisfied. And they are probably the best office trousers I have. I have worn them quite a bit since then. With the wear they have loosened a little bit around the tummy/waist and when I took them in on the hips, I did not have a french curve tho, so it created a few bumps on the side (I do now!). Also I am a bit unsure about how to design for having to “bumps on the side”. Next time I will try to account for these things. I also had a little trouble with my zipper, but I guess practice will fix that one for future creations. Oh and pockets next time too.

This is also my first experience with taking photos for blog posts – wow it is harder than you guys make it look. So many things to account for. Can you believe I had just ironed the trousers, neither me or my friend taking the pictures thought they looked wrinkly, but with the flash everything seem to change

 

IMG_2618The snuggle blouse

Garment number two was meant to be a blouse-sweatshirty thing. I got this off-white stretchy fabric with an outer layer of some lace thing. Semi transparent. My ideas was to make a blouse, that was snug fitting below the bust (a double layered tube thingy piece) and loose and flowy on the bust (the blouse shape it self). I also made my own pattern for this project, with much less success, I am sorry to say. I used a sweatshirt basic shape and did the alterations I thought necessary, for size and fit. When it had sewn it up, it did indeed have the sweatshirt look. More than I liked. I hoped it would be better when I attached the lower part. However, that did not really work out because the stretch was just to stretchy and so the snug fit didn’t hold up, and it just became a weird addition. Also my proportions were kinda off. I had made the top part pretty long so I could adjust it in the fitting, so in the end I decided to loose the tube part and just let it be an oversize kinda snuggly blouse thing for the coming fall. I still like it, even though it was nothing like I had planned for it to be. It is very soft, so I am pleased to wear it.I also had some collar issues, god damn. It is incredible how hard something so simple can be! I think maybe it had to do with the amount of pressing i gave it (a lot), it sorta seemed to go from fine, to not so fine somewhere along there. So the collar didn’t turn out exactly like i wanted it too, but the fabric is insane to unpick, so I have left it. Maybe it will improve in the wash.

In hindsight I think the big flaw lay in my  tubedesign, that the tube was just a bad design for stretchy fabrics. Having puzzled some more about it, I’ve come to the idea, that instead of using a tube piece, next time I will go with a three piece design. With a back piece and a front top and bottom piece, so the back piece keeps things in place in the right spots. I got some coral more stable stretchy fabric I will use for this I think.

Oh well, that is it for me for this time, talk at you soon!

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